The Ultimate Guide to 48 Hours in Istanbul
Istanbul is truly one of my favorite cities in all of the world, just behind Paris. Istanbul is exotic and enchanting, a beautiful mix of Europe and the East. As the capital of each of the Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman empires over the ages, Istanbul actually covers two continents, Europe and Asia, with the Bosporus Strait flowing in between the two—how unique is that? And, it feels like it is in two different worlds: the old city made up of mosques and cobblestone streets, and the vibrant, hip, modern new metropolitan. The constant (and to me, soothing) Muslim call to prayer against the backdrop of a city with citizens dressed like they could be walking through New York—and fabulous food and restaurants to match— make it truly one of the world’s great cities. It needs to be on your bucket list, if it is not already!
I have visited Istanbul twice, with a ten-year span between those visits. Here are some of my favorite things to do and places to eat and visit as seen during my most recent time to Istanbul in January 2019.
Where to Stay: Of note, I stayed on the Europe side in the center of Istanbul’s Old Town (Sultanahmet) at the Four Seasons Sultanhmet (Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sk. No. 1, 34122 Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey) (https://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/). This hotel could not be more centrally located. The outdoor terrace has a lovely view of the Hagia Sophia, which along with the Blue Mosque is literally only steps away. It is located in an old prison, and this space makes for a quaint smaller hotel vibe, which I like. The Four Seasons does have a sister property located on the Bosphorus as well.
Enjoy these special places and their people.
Day One:
1. Breakfast at Four Seasons Sultanahmet – (Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sk. No. 1, 34122 Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey) (https://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/) – The Four Seasons Sultanahmet offers a beautiful Turkish breakfast buffet surrounded by gorgeous gardens. Omelets and lattes made to order and a gorgeous spread of fresh meats, cheeses and vegetables. It is located next to Sultanahmet Square, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia, so a great place to start your day.
2. Have a Turkish Bath at AyaSofya Hurrem Sultan Hamam – (https://www.ayasofyahamami.com/) A Turkish bath is simply a “must do” when visiting Istanbul. A luxury of the highest order, a Turkish bath is just that: you are bathed by one of the women in the hamam. It starts with your entire body being scrubbed with a loofah —think exfoliation times ten. I love this part. Next, you can receive a mud treatment, depending on your time and cost. And then you lay in the center of the hamam, where you are bathed with luxurious soap and bubbles from head to toe. Finally, your hair is washed. It is decadent, and not ridiculously expensive. You will walk out feeling the cleanest that you have ever felt in your life. Please note that the hamam is an open place (women and men are separate of course), but you will be naked or in your bikini bottoms (if you bring them) with other women present. Also, plan accordingly as you will walk out with wet hair. Truly one of my favorite things to do in Turkey.
Ayasofya is a beautiful hamam located next to the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet Square. All white marble on the inside and is about three stories tall with a dome—stunning! It was designed and built by Mimar Sinan, an Ottoman architect at the request of the wife of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century (1556-1557 AD). It is one, if not the finest, haman in Istanbul and again a “must do”.
3. Lunch at Sultanamet Koftecisi – (Alemdar Mahalle, Divanyolu Caddesi 12A, Istanbul – 0.2 miles from Hagia Sophia Museum (www.sultanahmetkoftesi.com). I did not personally eat here, but it is highly recommended and the location on Sultanahmet Square is perfect.
4. Tour the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia – While in Sultanahmet Square, tour the historic Sultan Ahmed Mosque (known as the Blue Mosque). Constructed in the early 1600s, stunning hand painted blue tiles cover the mosque’s interior. Please note that you will need to be covered when touring (arms and legs need to be covered for women and women will need to wear a head covering, which are available at the entrance of the Blue Mosque for free). Also view the Hagia Sofia across the Square, which was originally constructed as a church.
5. Dinner at Mikla Restaurant – (The Marmara Pera Mesrutiyet, Caddesi 15 34430, Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey) (www.miklarestaurant.com) Ranked No. 44 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, (www.theworlds50best.com), this was a “must do” for me as a foodie. Led by Chef Mehmet Gurs, he continues his tradition of highlighting the New Anatolian cuisine, where he transforms the ancient and traditional food of the region using both new and ancient techniques. Mikla is located at the top of the Marmara Pera hotel, and has truly stunning views of the Bosporus and both the Asia and European sides of Istanbul. Having a nightcap at the bar at Mikla is well worth the trip as well. I did just that following my meal and had a wonderful view and conversation with those around me, which was a memorable part of my visit to Turkey as well.
Day Two:
1. Karakoy Neighborhood – Head to the Karakoy neighborhood and walk among all of its cafes, art galleries and shops.
2. Lunch (or Dinner depending on your schedule) at Ciya Sofrasi – (Caferaga Mah, Guneslibahce Sk. No. 43, Kadikoy, Istanbul, Turkey) (www.ciya.com.tr) Venture to the Asian side of Istanbul via the ferry or taxi for a visit to Ciya Sofrasi in the Kadikoy neighborhood. Quite possibly the best restaurant in Istanbul, Chef and Owner Musa Dagdeviren was featured on the latest season of Chef’s Table on Netflix, highlighting him and his passion for creating recipes from all over Turkey keeping the heritage of the region alive. He views himself as a culinary historian. Because the dishes offered at Ciya change daily, there is no menu, you just point out what you want and they prepare it and bring it to your table. After my meze selections were done, I had a barley soup which may be one of the best soups I have ever had in my life. Ciya Sofrasi is not the most sophisticated restaurant environment (and I do not believe alcohol is served) but you will leave with having experienced the real food of the region and it was a highlight of my trip. (Tip: it is a little tricky to find the restaurant among the cobblestone alleys, so make sure you have good directions or just ask). Do view the episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix featuring Chef Dagdeviren (and also Mehmet Gurs of Mikla) before going – it does pull everything together.
3. Tour the Grand Bazaar – (Beyazit Mh., Kalpakcilar Cd. No:22, 34126 Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey) Head back to the European side for a tour of the Grand Bazaar, thought to be one of the first shopping malls in the world. The color and variety are just beautiful to me and there are apparently over 4000 shops.
4. Dinner at Banyan Restaurant (Yildiz Mh., Muallim Naci Caddesi & Salhane Sokak No.3, 34347 Besiktas, Istanbul, Turkey) (www.banyanrestaurant.com) – Asian fusion fare in a truly beautiful setting.
